Ignition switch wire colors? Zündungschalter-Leitung Farben?

[Chris Busch]

I have been working on a 1700GT and its time to start it up again. But the ignition wires are disconnected at the ignition switch. What are the meaning of the colored wires? The key for my car was lost by the previous owner, so I need to 'hot' wire it.

I don't know German but world.altavista.com may be a good translation.

Ich habe auf einem 1700GT und seiner Zeit, es oben zu beginnen wieder gearbeitet. Aber die Zündungleitungen werden am Zündungschalter getrennt. Was sind die Bedeutung der farbigen Leitungen? Der Schlüssel für mein Auto wurde vom vorhergehenden Inhaber verloren, also benötige ich ' heiße ' Leitung es. Ich spreche nicht deutsch, aber world.altavista.com kann eine gute Übersetzung sein.

--
Chris

[Bernd Ollendorf]

hello chris.
i try it in inglish directly, because the translation-machinen sounds a litle ugly.so you have to live with my shool-english.
the wire- colors on the ignition switch are :
white-black (4.0mm) goes on kabelpoint nr 50
red(6.0) nr 30
red(1.0mm)nr 30
black (4,0)nr 15
this is the original-glas switch plan, if you have another colors there are maybe for the radio ore second beamlights.

the meaning of the wires are:
nr50 white-black goes to nr 50 at the starter
nr 30 red (6.0mm) also on the starter nr 30
nr 30 red (1.0mm) goes to nr 30 at the headligt-switch
nr 15 black is comming from the fuse-pannel at the second fuse from the front nr 15
so thats all , i hope that theese infos can help you to make the engine running again.
by bernd

[cgbusch@yahoo.com]

Thank you Bernd Ollendorf, your wiring notes was exactly what we needed.

We got the car to start but only on the gas that we squirted into the carburator. The float has fuel in it and so the fuel pump appears to work but the carbs are dry. I have rebuilt many carbs but none designed like those in a Glas. Any tips or tricks?

The clutch is now working great as well. Mitubushi Montero clutch master cylinders bolt right up with only 2 new holes drilled in the aluminum shell.


--
Chris Busch
1700 GT
MN USA
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Danke Bernd Ollendorf, Ihre Verdrahtung Anmerkungen war genau, was wir benötigten.

Wir erreichten das Auto, um aber nur auf dem Gas zu beginnen, das wir in das carburator sprizten. Die Hin- und Herbewegung hat Kraftstoff in ihr und also scheint die Kraftstoffpumpe zu arbeiten, aber die carbs sind trocken. Ich habe viele carbs aber keine umgebaut, die wie die in einem Glas entworfen werden. Irgendein neigt oder betrügt?

Die Kupplung ist jetzt das Arbeiten groß außerdem. Mitubushi Montero Kupplung, die Geberzylinder nach rechts oben mit nur 2 neuen Bohrungen verriegeln, bohrte innen das Aluminiumoberteil.

[Webmaster Matthias]

Hi, the fuel system is complicated:

mounted left side of the engine is a double-fuel-pump. one of them is used to pump fuel from the fuel tank to the floater box with float valve located at the bottom of right inside fender plate under the carburettors.

This is the first thing you'll have to check:
is fuel in the floater box and is the floater valve operating properly ?
In case there's no fuel, answer to get advice to repair the lower fuel pump
and check the fuel pump drive.

each carburettor has only a overflow valve to hold a constant fuel level.
both carburettors are supplied via a (most times faulty) T-throwback-valve, which is also limiting the fuel flow (1.3mm pipe)
This is connected to the second fuel pump, transporting the fuel always around between floater box and carburettors keeping the fuel fresh and cool.

The second thing to check:
remove the flexible fuel pipe from the T-Valve inlet and check the fuel flow.
In case there's no fuel, write to get advice to repair the upper fuel pump.


then remount the pipe and remove one pipe at the outlet of the t-valve and check fuel flow and throwback function.
in case there's no fuel, replace the t-valve.

if this is all ok, there's some dirt inside the carburettors.
In this case, write again to get advice how to disassemble, clean and reassemble the carburettors.

have a nice day

Wolfgang, webmaster

[Bernd Ollendorf]

hello chris,
wolfgang wrote the absolut truth
the carbs a very special, but you can handle it, if you follow his words.
good luck
bernd

[cgbusch]

So it almost works like a fuel injection car...

I think that maybe dried gas has gummed up the works. The bottom fuel pump, floater chamber both work. I will check the circulation from the top fuel pump and T valve, I'll try to clean it with carb cleaner spray.

If the top pump is at fault, can I temporarily replace it with an electic pump? If so at what psi pressure?

Here is the sound of it running in Summer 2001:
http://www.geocities.com/cgbusch/images/66glas.WAV

--
Chris

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So funktioniert es fast wie ein Kraftstoffeinspritzungauto... Ich denke, daß möglicherweise getrocknetes Gas herauf die Arbeiten gummiert hat. Die untere Kraftstoffpumpe, Landstreicherraum beide arbeiten. Ich überprüfe die Zirkulation von der oberen Kraftstoffpumpe und T Ventil, versuche ich, es mit carb Reinigungsmittelspray zu säubern. Wenn die obere Pumpe im Unrecht ist, kann ich sie durch eine electic Pumpe vorübergehend ersetzen? Wenn so mit was P/in Druck? Ist hier der Ton von ihm laufend in Sommer 2001: http://www.geocities.com/cgbusch/images/66glas.WAV

[cgbusch]

To hear the car, you need to visit:
http://www.geocities.com/cgbusch/images/
and click on 66glas.wav, since geocities is screwy...

[Bernd Ollendorf]

hello chris , nice car on the pics i dont exaktly know, but if you want to take a elektric fuel pump, it maybe only work for the first circuit, and you have to take the working fuelpump for the carbs
but there are repair sets on the market, i try to find out , where you kann buy them.
maybe an glas club member in the u.s. kann help you too, because of the long distans transport way

by
bernd

[cgbusch@yahoo.com]

Thank you Wolfgang and Bernd for your support. It turned out to be a stuck 'flap' valve in the fuel pump. I took it entirely apart, cleaned every part and reassembled. Currently only the emergency brake works so no highway travel yet.

We noticed that its very easy to shift into first and reverse (and probably 4th but we didn't try.) but we can't shift it into 2nd. It appears the shifter doesn't go far enough. Is there cable linkage or is it worn?

The right side's engine mount is bad. The rubber has separated. Is there spares available? Or should I just adapt another one?

What other cars used the oil filter? Micro-star as listed in the technical specs is unknown to me.

2 years ago when we started it, we started it with a 12 volt battery because we didn't know any better. We never noticed any dash instruments working except oil pressure at 2kg/cm2 at idle. This time after hooking up a 6 volt, and checking fuses, the dash is still not coming alive. Is there a hidden fuse?

How much work would it be to switch it over to 12volt? I could install an alternator that would not be difficult. Any gotchas?



Danke Wolfgang und Bernd für Ihre Unterstützung. Sie fiel aus, ein gehaftetes ' Klappe ' Ventil in der Kraftstoffpumpe zu sein. Ich nahm sie völlig auseinander, säuberte jedes Teil und baute wieder zusammen. Z.Z. nur die Dringlichkeitsbremse Arbeiten also keine Landstraße reisen schon. Wir beachteten, daß seine sehr einfachen, sich in erstes und aufzuheben (und vermutlich in 4. aber in uns zu verschieben versuchten nicht.) aber wir können nicht sie in 2. verschieben. Sie erscheint der Schieber geht nicht weit genug. Gibt es Kabelgestänge, oder ist es getragen? Das Motorlager der rechten Seite ist schlecht. Der Gummi hat sich getrennt. Gibt es die vorhandenen Reserven? Oder sollte ich gerade ein anderes anpassen? Was benutzten andere Autos den Ölfilter? Mikro-Stern, wie in technischen Spezifikt. verzeichnet ist mir unbekannt. vor 2 Jahren, als wir ihn begannen, begannen wir ihn mit einer 12-Volt-Batterie, weil wir nicht irgendwie wußten zu verbessern. Wir beachteten nie alle mögliche Schlaginstrumente, ausgenommen Öldruck an 2kg/cm2 im Leerlauf zu arbeiten. Dieses Mal, nach dem Anspannen herauf ein 6 Volt und der Überprüfung der Sicherungen, ist der Schlag noch nicht das Kommen lebendig. Gibt es eine versteckte Sicherung? Wieviel Arbeit würde es sein, sie zu 12volt rüber zu schalten? Ich könnte einen Wechselstromerzeuger anbringen, der nicht schwierig sein würde. Irgendwelche Vorschläge?
--
Chris

[Webmaster Matthias]

Hi, Chris

First, you should log in.
Second - expanding this discussion from a simple hint to "restoring a GT online" we should change to the member board.

It makes no sense to check gearbox shifting when one or more of the engine mounts are faulty - you shift the engine/gearbox-unit around, that's all. replace all 3 mounts (the one at the end of the gearbox is always the worst of all), availabe from Rolf Konen, info@glasclub.org, and you should also replace the tooth belt. Done this, I'll explain how to adjust the shifting.
Did you check the rockers and rocker gap ? Did you open the top oil pressure reduction an clean pipe and sieve ?? Extremely important !!! new tighting is required - order a lot of them - to redo every 3000km ... And check the oil flow to all rockers ...
In the section "technik" you'll find a list of all known fitting oil filter makes anf types. It should be a "screwed" one - else replace the oil filter foot (Rolf Konen) - don't forget the tightings.
Modification from 6 to 12 Volts have been done several times in the past, it's described in one of the older GCN's - I must look for. Problems are wipers and fan. Special adapters for AC-generators are provided by a club member.
I'm no specialist for GT-Dashboards and electrics (04-Driver), but in most cases the fuse box itself is broken, it is remanufactured in better material quality and you'll find that in our Web, Intern/Nachfertigungen.
I'm wondering ignition has survived the 12V, but the rpm-meter will be dead.

Regards
Wolfgang

[cgbusch]